Planning Guide

Altitude Sickness in Nepal

Altitude sickness starts above 2,500 m and almost every case is preventable. What matters is knowing which symptoms mean stop and rest, and which mean go down tonight. I have turned groups around within 200 m of a summit over exactly this.

Medical note: this is not medical advice.This guide is written from a trekking guide’s field experience, not a clinician’s. Drug names and doses below are included for orientation only and must not be used to self-prescribe. Consult a travel-medicine doctor before taking acetazolamide (Diamox), dexamethasone or nifedipine, and confirm current dosing with them. The clinical references for altitude illness are the Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Guidelines (2024 update) and the CDC Yellow Book chapter on High-Altitude Travel & Altitude Illness. If you suspect HAPE or HACE, treat it as a medical emergency and descend immediately.

The short version

  • 1.Altitude sickness begins above 2,500 m. On an Annapurna Base Camp or Everest trek you will cross that on day two or three.
  • 2.Above 3,000 m, gain no more than 300 to 500 m of sleeping altitude a day, and take a rest day every 1,000 m. That single rule prevents most cases.
  • 3.AMS means stop and rest. Headache plus nausea or poor sleep, but breathing normally and walking straight.
  • 4.HAPE and HACE mean descend tonight. The dividing line is breathlessness sitting still, or being unable to walk heel to toe.
  • 5.Never ascend with symptoms, and never leave someone with symptoms alone. Descent is the only treatment that always works.
The approach above Manang on the Annapurna Circuit at around 3,500 m, where altitude sickness cases most often begin
Manang sits at 3,519 m. Most of the AMS cases I see start here or on the climb towards Thorong La, where the ascent rate is easy to get wrong.

What Is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)?

At sea level, each breath delivers roughly 21% oxygen at normal atmospheric pressure. At 5,000 m (Everest Base Camp), that pressure drops by almost half - your body receives significantly less oxygen per breath even though the percentage remains the same. AMS is your body's inflammatory response to this hypoxic stress when the ascent has been too fast for physiological adaptation.

AMS is not correlated with age, gender, or fitness level. Elite athletes get it; sedentary first-time trekkers sometimes do not. Your only protection is pace.

AMS Symptoms to Watch For

AMS typically appears 6–12 hours after arriving at a new altitude. If you wake with a persistent headache after an acclimatization night, do not ascend further that day.

Headache

Primary indicator - do not ignore

Nausea / vomiting

Moderate concern

Fatigue and weakness

Common, monitor progression

Dizziness / lightheadedness

Moderate concern

Loss of appetite

Common at altitude

Difficulty sleeping

Normal above 3,500 m

Shortness of breath at rest

Urgent - may indicate HAPE

Confusion / disorientation

Emergency - descend now

How fast is too fast? Safe ascent rates by altitude

The limit is sleeping altitude, not the highest point you touch during the day. Climbing high and sleeping low is good practice. Climbing high and sleeping high is how people get into trouble.

Safe daily sleeping-altitude gain by altitude band, with rest day frequency
Altitude bandMax sleeping gain per dayRest daysWhere this bites on Annapurna
Below 2,500 mNo limit in practiceNot neededPokhara to Ghorepani
2,500 to 3,000 m500 mNot usually neededGhorepani to Tadapani
3,000 to 4,500 m300 to 500 mOne every 1,000 mChhomrong to ABC, Manang to Thorong Phedi
Above 4,500 m300 mOne every 600 to 900 mThorong Phedi to Thorong La

The standard itineraries I run are built around these numbers. Where a teahouse gap forces a bigger gain, we take the rest day on the far side rather than push two big days together.

Prevention: The Rules That Actually Work

Ascend no more than 300–500 m per day above 3,000 m

This is the single most effective prevention measure. On Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 m) and EBC (5,364 m) routes, this rule is built into well-structured itineraries.

Take a rest day every 1,000 m of elevation gain

Acclimatization days - where you hike high and sleep low - are not optional padding. They are the mechanism by which your body increases red blood cell production.

Drink 3–4 litres of water daily

Dehydration worsens every AMS symptom and can mimic its early signs. High altitude, cold air, and physical exertion dramatically increase fluid loss.

Avoid alcohol and sleeping pills above 3,000 m

Both suppress respiratory drive - the automatic increase in breathing rate your body uses to compensate for altitude. Alcohol also causes dehydration.

Do not ascend with AMS symptoms

Never push through a headache. If symptoms are present in the morning, rest for 24 hours at the same altitude. Ascend only if symptoms fully resolve.

Diamox (Acetazolamide) - What You Need to Know

Diamox is a prescription medication. Obtain it from your own doctor before travelling to Nepal - do not self-prescribe or purchase without medical guidance. It is not suitable for people with sulfa drug allergies.

Acetazolamide (brand name Diamox) is a carbonic anhydrase inhibitor that stimulates faster, deeper breathing - accelerating the body's acclimatization process. It is the only medication with strong clinical evidence for preventing and treating AMS.

Standard preventive dosage

125 mg twice daily (morning and evening), starting 24 hours before ascending above 2,500 m. Continue for 48 hours after reaching maximum altitude. Lower dose reduces side effects (tingling in hands and feet, increased urination) while maintaining efficacy.

Diamox does not mask symptoms - it accelerates acclimatization. You must still follow all ascent rate rules. Diamox is not a substitute for proper pacing.

AMS vs HAPE vs HACE: know the difference

AMS means stop and rest, no further ascent. HAPE means breathless at rest, descend 500 to 1,000 m with oxygen. HACE means unable to walk heel to toe, a medical emergency requiring immediate descent day or night.
Two questions decide it on the trail: can they breathe normally sitting still, and can they walk heel to toe in a straight line? A no to either is a descent, not a rest day. The sections below set out each condition in full.

AMS exists on a spectrum. At the severe end, it can progress to two life-threatening conditions: HAPE and HACE. Both require immediate descent, not descent tomorrow morning, not after one more rest day. Immediate.

AMS

Acute Mountain Sickness - Mild to Moderate

Headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness. Does not progress to HAPE or HACE in most cases if managed correctly. Reversible with rest at the same altitude or descent. Do not ascend while symptomatic.

Action: Rest, hydrate, take Diamox if prescribed, monitor closely. Descend 300–500 m if no improvement in 24 hours.

HAPE

High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema - Life-Threatening

Fluid accumulates in the lungs. The leading cause of altitude-related death. Symptoms: gurgling or crackling sound when breathing, severe breathlessness at rest, pink or frothy cough, extreme fatigue, bluish lips or fingertips (cyanosis). HAPE can develop without preceding AMS.

Action: DESCEND IMMEDIATELY. Every minute at altitude worsens the condition. Supplemental oxygen if available. Gamow bag if available. Nifedipine 30 mg extended-release if trained to administer.

HACE

High Altitude Cerebral Oedema - Life-Threatening

Swelling of the brain due to fluid accumulation. Symptoms: severe headache unresponsive to ibuprofen, inability to walk in a straight line (ataxia), extreme confusion, altered consciousness, seizures, loss of consciousness.

Action: DESCEND IMMEDIATELY. Even 300 m descent can save a life. Dexamethasone 8 mg initial dose if trained to administer. Do not wait for helicopter - begin descent on foot immediately.

When to Descend Immediately - No Discussion

Any of the following signs means immediate descent, regardless of weather, time of day, or how close you are to your destination:

  • Confusion or disorientation - cannot state the date, location, or recognise companions
  • Inability to walk in a straight line (heel-to-toe test failure)
  • Gurgling, crackling, or bubbling sounds when breathing
  • Frothy or pink-tinged cough
  • Loss of consciousness or unresponsive
  • Bluish colouration of lips or fingertips
  • Rapidly worsening headache unresponsive to ibuprofen and rest

Maximum Altitudes on Popular Nepal Treks

TrekMax AltitudeAMS Risk Level
Poon Hill / Ghorepani3,210 mLow
Mardi Himal4,500 mModerate
Annapurna Base Camp4,130 mModerate
Khopra Ridge3,660 mLow–Moderate
Manaslu Circuit5,106 mHigh
Everest Base Camp5,364 mHigh

Rohit's Personal Altitude Protocol

I monitor every trekker's symptoms from day one - not just at altitude, but from the moment we start climbing. I ask about sleep quality, appetite, headaches, and energy levels each morning. I carry a pulse oximeter on all high-altitude treks and track oxygen saturation at each camp.

If a trekker shows AMS symptoms, I make the call to hold or descend - not the trekker, and not based on schedule pressure. I have turned groups around within 200 m of a summit because the signs were wrong. Getting home safely is the only goal that matters.

See review from Sander Wolters: "Rohit decided to wait a day when other guides kept going up. Due to avalanche-risk, this was obviously the best decision."

Related Planning Guides

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I monitor symptoms daily, carry a pulse oximeter, and have made the call to hold or descend on every high-altitude trek I have guided. Your safety is not negotiable. If you want that level of attention, reach out.

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